[2]Thewavethatcameuponmeagainburiedmeatoncetwentyorthirtyfeetdeepinitsownbody, andIcouldfeelmyselfcarriedwithamightyforceandswiftnesstowardstheshore—averygreatway; butIheldmybreath, , when, asIfeltmyselfrisingup, so, tomyimmediaterelief, Ifoundmyheadandhandsshootoutabovethesurfaceofthewater; andthoughitwasnottwosecondsoftimethatIcouldkeepmyselfso, yetitrelievedmegreatly, gavemebreath, , butnotsolongbutIhelditout; andfindingthewaterhadspentitself, andbegantoreturn, Istruckforwardagainstthereturnofthewaves, , andtillthewaterswentfromme, , whichcamepouringinaftermeagain; andtwicemoreIwasliftedupbythewavesandcarriedforwardasbefore, theshorebeingveryflat.
